Hue in the rain

Tourists strolling across Truong Tien Bridge

As autumn draws to a close, the rain in Hue begins, and the cityscape gradually blurs in the rain. Hue's streets stretch out, echoing the lyrics of the late composer Quoc Dung.

Raindrops fall evenly on the rooftops, and the sound of rain merges with the melodious tones of pagoda and church bells. People say that only in England can one truly feel the misty country, in Saudi Arabia can one understand the climate of the desert, in Tibet can one experience snow-capped mountains and icy rivers, and in Russia can one grasp the bitterly cold winter. To visit Hue on a sunny day is beautiful, but during the rainy season, those with sensitive souls will have profound experiences of rain and the scenery of Hue in the rain.

Most visitors tend to come to Hue in the summer or fall, only seeing Hue's beauty in those two seasons, forming judgments about Hue based solely on those times. Even during those two seasons, Hue does not surpass other cities in terms of modernity, grandeur, or bustling activity. Without its heritage, Hue would not be the first choice of tourists. It boasts a World Heritage Site for its natural landscape, cultural and historical significance; it is a Buddhist cultural center with hundreds of pagodas, and is also a Catholic cultural center with large and beautiful cathedrals. Hue is a garden city with extensive greenery, often referred to as a city in the forest. It is a destination for cultural and spiritual tourists.

To visit Hue for shopping is not quite accurate because Hue's goods and products are available in supermarkets nationwide, and Hue's traditional ao dai tailors operate in major cities. Visiting Hue for tourism means wandering into the Imperial City, strolling along the streets, along the Huong River, visiting the ancient royal tombs, stopping by large pagodas like Bao Quoc, Tu Dam, Thien Mu, or spending an evening in the Redemptorist Cathedral to hear the echoing church bells. Hue cuisine is renowned nationwide, regionally, continentally, and globally for its delicious and famous dishes like royal delicacies or popular ones such as bun bo, com hen, nem, and tre, which have even reached Paris and California. In Hue, beyond sightseeing and experiencing the heritage, there is also the enjoyment of regional cuisine.

Visiting Hue during the rainy season allows one to immerse themselves in the rain falling on the Imperial City, getting a bit wet on the streets of Hue, and then heading to Hue's local eateries to warm the stomach. Hue dishes often have the scent of shrimp paste or fish sauce, with a spicy taste of chili and pepper. The people of Hue are meticulous in their cooking, with influences from the elaborate processes of royal cuisine and service from the past. Although meticulous and detailed, the process of cooking and presentation is tiresome and intricate, but the result is delicious and distinct from the cuisine of other regions. After eating, walking in the rain, whether heavy or light, amidst the dripping rain, searching for a cafe with a vintage sign, and old atmosphere; sipping slowly, listening to old sentimental music. The music in Hue's cafes mainly consists of old melodies, with the sound of string instruments and wind instruments, and minimal percussion or modern electronic music. Some say this reflects the nature of the people of Hue. I believe it is influenced by the imprint of the solemn court music, creating a preference for folk music. Thus, the people of Hue are not fond of noise, ostentation in speech, behavior, or the enjoyment of music.

Walking on the streets of Hue during the rain allows one to feel the ancient Hue from the perspective of palaces, walls, and tombs influenced by time and space. The scorching sun, intense and sweltering, with the Laotian wind blowing, contrasts with the white rain erasing the mossy tiles, palaces, and pagodas, dampening the wet and humid walls, with water pooling in every corner. Time passes, the earth and sky undergo the four seasons, stones erode, dynasties are discarded, and the once majestic capital has become a historical relic. People who once wore ao dai, adorned with ivory clasps, canh chuon (futou) hats, and embroidered dragon phoenix shoes, now wear office uniforms or shirts, trousers, leather shoes, carrying bags or wearing backpacks. The changes in affairs, so, come to Hue to listen, observe, understand the past rather than embrace the vessel of the past and run around, proclaiming and making declarations about the past too much.

After the rain, Hue shines on the streets, rooftops, and the faces of people passing by. The streets of Hue are unbelievably clean at that time. I've been to almost all the cities in this country, but I can say that no city is as clean as Hue. The streets are regularly swept clean, parks and greenery are regularly pruned, although Hue's tree planting area is probably the highest in the country.

Therefore, the streets of Hue are beautiful both day and night. Le Loi Street always carries the scent of camphor trees, Le Duan Street is lined with red phoenix flowers on both sides, and during the spring season, from Quang Duc Gate to Da Vien Bridge towards the imperial city, yellow apricot blossoms flourish. 23/8 Street – Doan Thi Diem Street are covered with the shade of phoenix and banyan trees, and then Le Huan Street, Dang Thai Than Street, both west and north of the Imperial City, shaded by green trees. The newly expanded roads, such as Kim Long Street, Nguyen Phuc Chu Street, and the pedestrian street along the Huong River leading to Thien Mu, are also beautiful roads that bring many benefits to the people, enhancing the beauty of the Huong River, a world natural heritage...

When you come to Hue, walk on the streets of Hue, especially the Royal Streets, listen to the echoes of time, of the old days, observe the space of Hue in all four seasons, enjoy Hue's dishes, and listen to the old music of Hue. If you listen to me, you will see Hue's beauty in all four seasons.

This evening, the north wind of the winter season returns, and it's raining again in Hue, just a light rain...